My Journey to Jakarta

Feeling well enough not to sit around the humble abode, Regina, Tasha (her daughter) and I decided to venture forth and explore the capital city of Jakarta. Regina is passionate about shopping, and those of you who know me that’s my idea of hell on earth. So we compromised, after we went book shopping we would visit a couple of museums in the old section of Jakarta. Our plan was set – we’d leave on the 5:45 am train and arrive in Jakarta at 9:00 am.

Watching the landscape from the train was breathtaking; the mountains being warmed by the morning sun in the background and the enormous rice paddies in the foreground. The train which was relatively modern had air conditioning with a stewardess and stewards who take your breakfast order and serve the food on china plates. Prior to breakfast you were given a bag that contained water, a sweet roll and crackers. I opted just for the bag of bread and a glass of hot coffee (which I keep forgetting is served very sweet). About three quarters of the way to Jakarta the train stopped for about 20 minutes. No one seemed concerned and continued to watch a pathetic American movie staring David Caruso.

After moving for about 10 minutes we stopped again, with the conductor coming on the PA system, informing us that there was a broken rail and it would be a while to fix it. People began to move about; talk, grumble and Regina came back and said she had heard we could be waiting for five hours! We decided to follow four other people and get off the train. We went through five cars, one having private compartments with couches and a music system. We passed the conductor smoking a cigarette, sitting and laughing with fellow workers. When we got to the front car there was no steps so we had to jump out of the train and land on the railroad tracks. We crossed two other tracks (and yes I did look both ways!) and finally got to the station. It was desolate- except for a few broken down, burned busses, and two becak drivers. The other passengers had already gotten into the remaining becak, someone called out to an old man from behind a building to take us. The three of use squeezed into his becak and the wizen old man began the long and bumpy ride to the bus station so we could continue our journey. We were too heavy a load for this poor man to keep up with the other drivers- but I did say my prayers as we were going the wrong way down a very busy one-way street. He hugged the side of the road, but that was broken and dilapidated and chunks of the road had fallen down into a ravine by the river. I didn’t look down, for fear of falling off the side of the road, and I didn’t look forward for fear of the on-coming traffic- so I just closed my eyes.

Pushing us the remaining 25 yards- we arrive across from the bus terminal. There are the other four train passengers in a taxi and telling us to get in. As we start to get in the taxi driver – pulls away – saying there are too many people. They wave good-bye as we are left standing by the side of the road. Up pulls another taxi. He and Regina begin to haggle about price as Tasha and I are trying to dodge the zooming traffic. Finally all fees have been negotiated and we set off for Jakarta.

Once in the taxi, I get my bearings and look at our transportation. Cracked windshield, no taxi license, and in order for him to get out of the car, the driver must roll down his window and open the door from outside. Nor can we open either of our doors from the inside. When Regina asked why he is not using the a/c he responded by saying he was low on gas and conserving! After more negotiations we have hired this gentleman (and I use the term very loosely), for the entire day. Regina felt sorry for him she would tell me later.
Finally we arrive in Jakarta – first stop - the largest English bookstore in the city. It had a number of books – mostly business and a great many textbooks, but it was fun to walk around.
Next we begin our trek through the congested streets of Jakarta to get to the museums. At a major intersection, our chariot stalled. The driver is cursing, and yelling, the traffic is piling up behind us, and horns are blaring. Our driver rolls down the window, opens his door and jumps out into this massive traffic jam. He attempts to push the car out of the intersection with the three of us sitting in the back seat. He calls to a young man on the side of the road to push the car as he hops back in and turns the ignition. the car begins to sputter and we are off!

For a taxi driver who claims to have lived in Jakarta he could not find his way to any museum. Regina called one museum 5 times and on the fifth call they asked – what kind of taxi driver do you have! As we are in front of one museum our trusty vehicle again dies. This time we are not in the middle of the busy intersection but still it is disconcerting. The driver hails an older vagabond to help who then refuses the lone cigarette the driver offers as payment. An argument ensues with the driver cursing out the man, and the man yelling about money. Regina gives money to the driver to pay the man; the driver tosses the money back to Regina refusing to pay the man that much money ($1.00). The driver gives the man two bills which correspond to approximately 2 cents. The museums were in close proximity of each other so we were able to rest the exhausted man and vehicle as we did our sightseeing. Now on to some of the sights.