Tuesday, July 29, 2008

National Holiday

Tomorrow, Wednesday is a national holiday. All schools and businesses are closed in celebration of the Muslim holiday, Israa Mi'raj:

Israa: Was the Prophet Mohammed’s trip from Mecca to Masjid al-Aqsa in Jerusalem
Mi'raj: Was the Prophet's journey to Heaven where Mohammed was given the orders of prayer. Apparently Mohammed was originally told that the people were to pray 50 times a day. That finally was decided to be five times a day.
As far as Muslims are concerned, there is no particular celebration, fast or prayer to commemorate israa and mi’raj. As far as I’m concerned it allows me a day to relax.

Beginning on Thursday we will then have full days. That means I will have students from 7:00 a.m. until 2:05 p.m. Except for Fridays. All schools let out at 11:30 for that is the Muslim holy day.

Saturday, July 26, 2008

Friday night get-away

We had successfully completed the first week of school. I had put in 12 hour days for the past six days or so. I was leaving at 5:30 Friday night and was looking forward to just relaxing and doing exciting things, like boiling water to do my laundry. Regina came out of her office and told me she needed a break (she and her husband have put in incredible hours), and told me her family was going to Linggarjati. It is a town at the foot of the 3000 meter high volcano Mount Tjeremai. Would I like to go? Naturally I said yes, and went home to pack, since we were leaving in one hour.
We stopped for dinner at a place we had been before. There are a few tables where people sit in chairs, but we always sit on the floor with the lower table. Whole fish, fried, then grilled was brought to our table. Fried tempeh (a fermented food made by cooked soybeans and a mold. It’s a staple of Indonesian food.), along with fried tofu. There was also a salad of raw vegetables with a peanut sauce. After I managed to get up from the floor we went to the hotel that we were staying overnight.
It’s a small new hotel that is owned by a friend of Regina’s husband. We got a suite and I shared a room with Tasha. Yes there was a toilet (no toilet paper) and a shower. I never got a shower, because we had plans to go swimming later on in the day.

It is much cooler up in the mountain. We did not require a/c (which was good since the hotel doesn’t have it).Around 4:30 the call to pray from the local mosque was loud and clear. But as I lay in bed, I realized I could hear birds chirping. Something I never hear in Cirebon, rather, I hear roosters.
In the morning, a breakfast of eggs and toasted sandwiches (either strawberry jam or peanut butter) was served on the patio outside our room. The children watched Sponge Bob and Tom and Jerry cartoons in Indonesian, while I sat outside and talked with Regina.

We went for a walk and visited the house where in November of 1946, the Dutch and the Indonesian delegations signed an agreement to begin the formal process of decolonization. The house was originally a hut, and then was expanded to become a hotel. For a number of years after the agreement it was a school. The government has designated it as a museum, and it has been restored to its original grandeur. It is also surrounded by lush gardens in which we walked for a while.

Next we went to the Linggarjati Tourism Park where we walked down to the waterfall. It was partially man-made, and part natural, with koi swimming in the various ponds. The bamboo trees were so tall and dense, that there was moss growing on the sides of the rocks.

At that point it was already 12:00 and Deni and Regina said it was too hot to go to swim. The children would get sunburned, so we went to eat (of course!) I was full from a mango juice that I had after the waterfall walk, so when we got to the restaurant I saw a plain cheese sandwich. I thought it would be grilled and much to my surprise it was the shredded cheese, on toasted bread with lettuce, and chilies. Good, but not quite what I had in mind! Afterwards we drove back to Cirebon, where I finally boiled that water for the laundry.

Waterfall


After a rather long hike down it was a disappointingly small waterfull. But the area was gorgeous.

Linggarti museum house


Friday, July 25, 2008

New School Address

For those of you who would like to send me snail mail or packages (hint, hint), please send them to the school. The new address is:
Sekolah Pelita Bangsa
Jl. Terusan Arafuru
Blok A-1, No. 6-7
Cirebon , Indonesia

Phone number is 62-0231-20887
or fax # 62-231-233535

Thanks-
Carol

Thursday, July 24, 2008

coffee- Indonesian style

Kopi (the Indonesian word for coffee) Luwak comes from the islands of Sumatra, Java and Sulawesi. But it's not strictly the exotic location that makes these beans worth their weight in gold. It's how they're "processed."
On these Indonesian islands, there's a small mammal called the paradoxurus, a tree-dwelling animal that is part of the sibet family. Long regarded by the natives as pests, they climb among the coffee trees eating only the ripest, reddest coffee cherries. Who knows who first thought of it, or how or why, but what these animals eat they must also digest and eventually excrete. Some brazen or desperate -- or simply lazy -- local gathered the beans, which come through the digestion process fairly intact, still wrapped in layers of the cherries' mucilage. The enzymes in the animals' stomachs, though, appear to add something unique to the coffee's flavor through fermentation..

So a very simple way to say this – it’s animal butt coffee.

I ‘v been given a bag of this coffee from my principal (should I be concerned???). It’s instant, so I don’t know if it taste any better when you pay $75.00 per quarter pound back home, but it’s not that good.A dear sweet friend of mine just sent me some coffee and filters from home. Although they do not have coffee pots here, I have a plan! Will keep you posted on my coffee brewing success

fruit of the week



Kelengkang-is like a lychee but it is not. In the US it is called longan. I've never seen it or tasted it. The outside is covered by a light-brown, roughly-textured rind that is inedible but easily removed. The inside consists of a layer of sweet, translucent white flesh, with a texture somewhat similar to that of a peeled grape The center contains a single glossy brown nut-like seed.

Wednesday, July 23, 2008

School Days in Cirebon

The students have been with me for two days. The children are only having only half days the first week of school. That means we begin at 7:00 a.m. and finish at 11:00 a.m... I have twenty two students (10 are in third grade, the remainder in second). I’m teaching reading and grammar to all the students, while Ms. Medy is teaching Bahasa Indonesia. If I can, I may go to the kindergarten room when they are learning Bahasa (although I think they are probably way ahead of me). Math for the third graders will be my domain, and then social studies and science Ms. Medy and I will teach jointly. The children call you by your first name, so I have to get use to Ms. Carol. I’m forever saying Ms. Murphy to them – and they look more puzzled than usual. Actually they often just call out, “Miss! Miss! So our first order of business has been to ask them to sit down and raise their hands- quietly.

I thought I would have difficulty learning and pronouncing the names of the students- but surprisingly most have American or Irish names. Some of the names of the children are David, Christy, Phillip, Mario, Declan, Fiona and one child named Ebenezer. Richard goes by the name Alfian, which appears to have no connection to any of his names. Many of the children with Chinese heritage have two names: an Indonesian name, and then the Chinese name.

They are much quieter than their American counterparts, and will diligently do the work assigned to them. However, critical thinking, analyzing a challenge or creative problem solving is not part of their academic education. My main criteria are to encourage the children to think and problem solve. I knew I was in for an up-hill battle when one of my little ones said “I don’t think”.

Today I played some music I brought from home and they were wide-eyed and moving. English in varying degrees is spoken by most of the students. One little one knows very little, and then at the end of the spectrum is Regina’s daughter, Tasha, who is extremely fluent.

I’m excited about the year, the children are precious, and I hope you enjoy the pictures!

The little girl is Christy, who's brother is also in my class. Next to her is Hamid, an adorable, little guy. He's very shy and quiet. But he loves to watch Tom and Jerry cartoons he told me.

Maggie is a very hard worker, and a perfectionist. She came the first day with her fancy labels for her supplies and books. They had to be placed just so on her materials. David is the boy next to her. He's the one that arrives at school at 6:30 a.m.

This is Mario. He is always happy and loves to smile. He wrote a story about his three dogs.

Writing Class

This is Kezia. She has very little English knowledge, but she is quick with a beautiful smile, and willing to learn. She was able to write baby, happy, birthday.

Tuesday, July 22, 2008

Shoes


We don't wear shoes inside the classroom. You don't wear shoes anywhere there is a rug (even if it's a very small area rug). Consequently the shoes just get tossed off the feet as you enter the classroom. These are the teachers' shoes- as we went into a classroom for a meeting. The pink sandals (or as they call them slippers) are actually fuzzy with little bells hanging from the black straps.

This is Anna's future husband, Eru. He is a professional musician, and is very talented. He is now our music teacher and physical education teacher. They still have not told many people that they are getting married. Anna's mother will arrive on August 2nd, met her future son-in-law, and then attend the wedding on August 4th.

First day of school

Our first day of school! The parents came with the students to meet us and get their supplies and books. That's Medy on the right (the wedding I went to ) and Anna is on the left. She is getting married August 4th.
Notice we all have the same shirts- they are called batik. Batik is a traditional fabric of Indonesia, and Cirebon is famous for it. It's a process using wax and a pen to create the designs.

Sunday, July 20, 2008


Blessing of the building. The pastor is the gentlman kneeling at the far end of the kindergarten classroom. Notice the metal beams above. The ceilings are also metal. The sound reverberates - so it should be interesting when there are children there!

A main tool -used for climbing, cutting, and drilling.

Building a school, Indonesian Style

The new school building will officially open for business, Monday, July 21st. That is Orientation day when the parents come and check out the classroom, meet the teachers and buy the books and supplies. It was a long and confusing week to get to this point, but we are finally here.

Last Saturday, July 12th we moved everything from the old school building to the new one. Mind you, the new one was no where near done as we moved desks, tables, chairs, and supplies. We walked around workers drilling into metal, cementing ceramic tiles on the floor, and carrying wood beams up and down the stairs. We had to maneuver around bamboo ladders, and wooden horses that they stood on to drill and hammer. Not one worker had on a hard hat, and many of them were shoeless. Quite a few of them were doing their jobs with one hand, as they smoked a cigarette. Monday, and Tuesday of the following week, we were required to be at the building from 7:00 am until 3:00 pm. Yet we sat and waited as workers continued to hammer against the metal beams, cement stones to the façade of the school and running electrical wires. Monday morning, they had scrubbed and scraped my classroom’s ceramic tiles, I was sure Tuesday I would be able to set up my classroom. Instead, when I got to school, tiles were pulled up, and chipped away, because they hadn’t put enough cement underneath. Eventually all those tiles would have buckled if not secured properly. All that cleaning was for naught. We sit and wait

In the meantime, a water tank on the third floor (I am on the second) began to drip, causing a waterfall effect on my wall. Major gaps in the walls allowed for lots of air and sunlight to come in, which was fine for a while since we didn’t have any electricity. No running water either, so we had to tramp outside to the hose to get water to clean with, and then go across the dirt road to use a bathroom.

There are no inspections of the building, no codes to follow, and the man, who oversaw the construction, just appeared to walk around, look, nod his head and keep walking.

Finally, today, Sunday it’s beginning to look like a school. Teachers have been working, 8, 9, 10 hours to complete their classrooms, and we were required to work this past Saturday for at least 8 hours.

As is the custom here, today we had the blessing of the building. As my sister-in-law said, of course they had to have a blessing of the building – god knows without the codes and safety requirements. After the pastor prayed, and the group sang, four men went out of the classroom with oil and put it on various doors and windows. This is a symbol of God’s protection over the building.

Afterwards we had a massive boxed lunch with chicken, shrimp, beef, vegetables and lots of rice. Apparently, someone didn’t think that was enough so they brought in Kentucky Fried Chicken. However, no mashed potatoes – more rice!

Replacing ceramic tiles in the school. When tapping on the ceramic tiles, if you heard a hollow sound it meant not enough cement had been placed on the tile. Eventually they would all buckle, causing a domino effect.

Another view of the market. I was in the becek on the way home. Yanti helped me pick out my fruits and vegetables and negotiated the prices.

These are the traditional rickshaws of Cirebon. It is a three wheeled bike with you sitting in the front. In other places, the rickshaws are horse drawn. Some of the drivers decorate their beceks. At the end of my street are about four of them each day. As far as I can tell the drivers sleep in them overnight.

Doesn't the driver look thrilled??? Regardless of where you go it costs 10,000 rupiahs to have a ride in a becek (baycheck). Notice also - you ride in the front, so you get to see all the zooming traffic coming towards you.

Coming back from the traditional market on Sunday morning. Went with Yanti, an Indonesian woman, married to Abdul, an American.

Wednesday, July 16, 2008

Tony the Tokek



This is my newest nightly neighbor and I've named him Tony the tokek. He is nocturnal and makes a horrible sound throughout the night. However, I'd rather he make those sounds, since then I know where he is while I am cooking or cleaning up in my outdoor kitchen.

I did not actually take this picture- I wouldn't get that close to Tony. They will bite and then they grab on to their prey. The only way to get them off is with fire, or until they hear thunder. Which is very unlikely until November.

Tuesday, July 15, 2008


Another vendor selling other fish. Nothing is refrigerated.

This woman sold us shrimp that we made for lunch later in the day. She does not weigh it - you choose which bowl of shrimp you wish to purchase. I must admit, the flies swarming around and resting on the fish did not appeal to me.

Traditional Market

Sunday morning bright and early, even before the sun rose, Regina and I headed to the traditional market. At 6:00 a.m. many of the outdoor stalls were only beginning to place their goods for sale. There are two different traditional markets in Cirebon and this one is the largest. Three or four city blocks where chock full of vendors selling fresh fruit and vegetables along with fish, shrimp, meat, sweets and clothing, trinkets and toys. . Around each corner was a stand where either a person was cutting pineapple into delicate slices, or fresh jasmine buds and petite red flowers being arranged for cemetery decorations. Within the buildings were narrow rows and dark alley ways of broken cobblestone with every product for sale, imaginable. Butchers were hacking away at sides of lamb and goat, next to a vendor grinding coconut to collect the milk. Red chilies were every where in every stage, long bright red, fresh whole chili, sliced chili, and finally the type I purchased, fresh chili paste. Both fresh and salted varieties of fish were also available. There was the smell of delicious sweet dough being fried. Regina and I stopped to buy some – but the line was too long. So an elderly lady in line took us to another stall deep in the recesses of the building. Next to that vendor selling sweets, I purchased fresh made noodles. Besides the food, there were clothing, toys, and trinkets. We left at 7:30 and the market was teeming with people. It is open every day from 6:00 am until noon – when it is just too hot for both the people and the produce.

Thursday, July 10, 2008

Odds and Ends

Well I finally have internet at the old homestead! It only took two days and four young men. It would not have been possible without the wonderful help of Yanti (the Indonesian wife of an American). Yanti translated and kept me company while the initial registration and then the installation occurred. I have come to realize that everything needs a great deal of paper work with multiple locations for your signature, and always having a tax stamp adhered to it. The young gentleman, who came Tuesday, forgot the stamps so off he zoomed on his motorcycle to purchase them. I’m not quite sure where you purchase them, but every paper appears to need them. The next day, the young men from “Speedy” internet service came and installed the modem and 15 meters of cable. I have the computer in my small bedroom since it’s the only room with a/c (which allows me to put on a sweatshirt and keep the mosquitoes off). With modem, cable, installation and those tax stamps it came to 605,000.00 rupiahs – which is roughly $66.00

Last night, Regina and her family took me to a new restaurant that opened in Cirebon. The place was mobbed. Surrounding the parking lot, and in front of the restaurant there were massive posters propped up on easels. The posters were wishing the owners success in their new endeavor and then signing their names. These messages were done with beautiful paper to make it appear as if it were made out of flowers. These billboard type greetings have flowers above them and below them. Tasha, Regina’s daughter said they also use them in funerals. That’s exactly what I was thinking but, didn’t voice.
The restaurant is massive. It had a beautifully decorated interior with local batik materials framing the lights and buffet section. I tried rice that is cooked in coconut milk and then topped with fried salted fish. Very delicious.

Afterwards, we went to a hospital to visit one of Regina’s friends who just had a baby. It was an old building, built when Indonesia still ruled by the Dutch (approx. 1945). In the front of the building there are doctors’ offices and then in the back is the maternity ward. It is a Catholic hospital so ever corridor is named after a saint. In the center of the maternity ward is a beautiful atrium. The nursery was at one end while the rooms were at the other.
As is the custom here, one takes off their shoes when entering a home, or a classroom, any place where a carpet would be located. I noticed in the nursery the nurses were taking care of the new-born babies in bare feet.
Directly across the hall from the nursery was the one delivery room. The door was unlocked, so naturally, yours truly opened it and took a peek. Very, very, basic. I’m grateful that my children were born in the US.

Today was the first official day for the other teachers to return to school. We were told we have to come on Saturday at 7:30 to move our desks, boxes, chairs, everything to the new building…it certainly a different world. I don’t think any teacher union in the States would approve of this. However, I see it as my chance to workout- rather than go to the gym. Sorry for such a long entry – I just haven’t had the chance to sit and write.


Just thought I'd show you some of the cleaning tools I am using. I keep thinking they look like the brooms in Beauty and Beast and I expect them to come alive!

By breakfast fruit - aka snake fruit


Salak (The fruit grow in clusters at the base of the palm, and are also known as snake fruit due to the reddish-brown scaly skin. They are about the size and shape of a ripe fig with a distinct tip. The pulp is edible. The fruit can be peeled by pinching the tip which should cause the skin to slough off so it can be pulled away. The fruit inside consists of three lobes, each containing a large inedible seed. The lobes look like, and have the consistency of, peeled garlic cloves. The taste is usually sweet and acidic, but its apple-like texture can vary from very dry and crumbly to moist and crunchy

At restaurants here, after eating - which is done mostly with your hands there are sinks in the middle of the dining area for you to wash your hands. Behind Jason is a play ground area in the restaurant. The entire restaurant staff sings a greeting everytime someone comes in or leaves the restaurant.

Regina's children


Here are Jason (2nd grade) and Natasha (3rd grade) at s newly opened restaurant. I will have both of these children in my class

Monday, July 7, 2008


Another view of the mosque- but I wanted to let you see the mountain in the background. That's where the people from Cirebon go to cool off. It's about 10-15 degrees cooler up in the mountain.

Sunday morning in Cirebon


This is one of the mosques in Cirebon. I walked to it on Sunday morning - it's about 1/2 hour walk. Every Sunday morning there is a small street fair - with little games for the children (small wading pool and they fish with magnetic poles in the water; a tiny cart with plastic balls that the children can't jump in- they just sit) trinkets and of course food also is sold.

This is the breaking of the egg ritual. Meidy told me she asked her mother why her husband wasn't going to wash her feet! Parents are to the right of the picture. And the gentleman with the microphone reminded me of the wedding singer!
Meidy's headdress is made from jasmine buds. The tradition states that if you are anxious to marry quickly you are to sneak up and snatch a jasmine bud from the headdress, without the bride's knowledge. Then you are to put it under your pillow. Not to worry - I did not attempt that!

Meidy and Harris's wedding


This was after the marriage ceremony. This begins the Javenese rituals.

Muslim Wedding – Javanese Style

On Saturday July 5th at 8:00 am. I attened the wedding of my co-teacher, Meidy. Most Muslim weddings occur at the bride’s family’s house, and this was no exception.
It was a windy, cool (relatively speaking) morning, and the road in front of her family’s home had a white canopy draped over it. Under the canopy were chairs covered in white fabric with gold fabric tying the back. At the beginning of the canopy sat two young ladies who asked us to sign the guest book and then offered souvenirs of the wedding – gold hand mirrors. Many people were sitting underneath the canopy – but we were ushered past them to the seats in front of the room where the ceremony was taking place. The room for the ceremony was attached to the house and the huge wooden doors were opened to reveal the wedding party, parents, and other gentleman. The bride and groom sat at a low table, while others sat around them. Opening out into a patio, sat other men, who did a great deal of talking into the microphone. We sat in chairs under a different white canopy. To the right of the room was a “throne-like arrangement”, with two chairs higher than the two on each side. Behind the chairs was a glass-encased water fall, surrounding by greenery, and in front of the chairs was another waterfall, surrounded by small shrubs and flowers.

During the ceremony, the groom spoke, as did other men, but Meidy did not speak at all. There is a marriage book that various people signed during the ceremony, and the actually marriage occurs after the groom and the bride’s father hold hands and speak to each other. After this part of the ceremony was complete, the caterers passed out boxes of snacks. The snacks consisted of bottled water, sticky rice stuffed with ground chicken, wrapped in a palm leaf, a sweet fruit (similar to dates) stuffed with chopped nuts, also wrapped in a palm leaf, and a fried donut shaped like an egg – filled with chocolate.

The couple came out of the house and went to the canopy that was draping the road and where many more guests had gathered. . Here they performed Javanese rituals. The first one is them lighting incense together and then putting it out in a jug of water. The next one had the bride and groom along with their parents throwing coins at the guests. Another tradition has the groom stepping on an egg and then the bride washes the groom’s foot. This has been sanitized so that the egg is in a plastic bag, and the groom actually steps on a board that covers the egg. Finally both Meidy and her husband, Harris take the earthen jug and smash it to the ground.

Next the wedding party moved over to the throne-like set-up. Initially the bride’s parents take the center seats and the bride and groom kneel before them to receive their blessings. Next the groom’s parents repeat the ritual with the couple. Finally, Meidy and Harris sit in the center chairs and a cooked whole chicken is brought to them. They are to tug the chicken apart by its front legs and the person who has the more of the chicken is said to be the one with the power in the relationship. Meidy was able to get the entire chicken – but for the wing that her husband was initially holding! Afterwards the couple ate from the piece that Harris had managed to secure.

Finally the guests were able to go up to the families and offer congratulations. The happy couple and their parents will remain there throughout the festivities. After wards we were ushered to the buffet line where there was rice, chicken and vegetables, carrot and green bean salad, tofu, bananas and water. After eating it is the polite thing to go back up and ask permission to leave, which is what we did.

It was a beautiful ceremony, and hopefully with the pictures you get an idea of how exquisite the outfits for both the bride and the groom were. The actual reception occurred later in the day. I did not go to that, but from what I am told, that is more food, and music. Again, the bride and groom do not participate- they remain to receive.
and bid good-bye to the guests. I had a great experience, and I was honored to be invited.

Friday, July 4, 2008

Bureaucracy Part 2

Monday war our second attempt to open my bank account. We had arrived the previous day five minutes before the bank was to close. How we managed to weave and bob through the traffic at 2:45 was by the very talented driver, Pak Toto.
However, ten minutes after we arrived, and had been sitting we were told to come back the next day.
Tuesday morning we arrived at the bank at 8:10 am and did not leave until 11:00 am. Now in all fairness, four of us needed to open bank accounts. First we went to a woman behind a desk, who started the process. However, people were constantly coming in and giving her their bank books, so she was taking care of them also. After about a half hour, this young lady stood up, locked her desk and went somewhere.
Then a very tall gentleman looked at the applications and passed them to anther gentleman who appeared to be rushing about. Finally, the young lady came back, and after much talking back and forth we were able to proceed upstairs to deposit into our bank account. That line was very long also, and we waited for quite a while. After depositing money into the account we had to return to the original desk to now receive our atm cards. Throughout this entire process they must have needed my signature at least 10 times. Each time they needed to verify the signature as I had written it on my passport. In fact, one of the new teachers had to keep writing her signature over and over again, because the bank personnel did not think it matched her id card. Finally, with atm card in hand, and a headache I was able to leave.

Happy 4th of July to everyone- I’m celebrating by working. I’m here at school envious that you are all having barbeques, hanging out at picnics, beaches, rivers, eating watermelon, chicken, and blueberry pie. Their independence day is August 17th so I am curious as to how they celebrate.